Travelling round South America

So, back in Chile, Arica for the third time. For those of you wondering, of course there`s a man involved! He´s the owner of the Hostel International here...it's definitely a party hostel...and, in my defence, all the people at the hostel are on their second visit here..or, in Canadia's case, has stayed at least 3 weeks over the expected time. So there must be something about this place (or maybe its owner)!!

I have to say, though, I was particularly looking forward to Carnaval here, since I knew the party would be huge. So there I am making everyone in La Paz jealous that I will be spending carnaval on the beach, while they're struggling to breathe up in altitude, when I arrive in Arica only to be informed that Arica, for reasons known only to itself, celebrates carnaval a week earlier than the rest of South America! Indeed Roberto did email and tell me to get there 'this Friday', but I simply assumed he'd got the date wrong, or meant to say 'next Friday' (whilst smugly thinking EVERYONE knew carnaval was Feb 16th), so I ignored him! And now I'm the only person in this continent to have missed the bloody thing!

Anyway, I´ve met some great people here..other than Roberto, there is Becky and Chloe forn Guernsey, Kevin (aka Canadia), Olivier (France) and Esther (Suiza). AS usual, we're spending our days lazing on Cinchorro or Laucho beach, sleeping, eating great bbqs or seafood at Ciglo. Hoowever, we are making efforts to be active..last week mysel, Chloe and Suiza hired bikes and rode the 10km round trip to see the caves just outside town! It was good fun, except that the bikes were so rickety we all had sore bums the day after! And not only that we walked a good way through the caves (which gave fantastic views o Arica's coastline, but it was soo windy!) and then went for a long swim on the way home. But the exercise gave us a definite excuse to believe we fully deserved the 10 or so beers we consumed that night! Sadly our intention to bike again have not yet materialised, but there's always tomorrow...

Last week we also saw some sea lions, who hang out at the harbour (only just now have I made it to see them). God, do they smell! It's as if they seriously need a bath..which is clearly odd, since they live in a huge one! But they are amazing..huge, and they just sit, eyes tight shut and nosed pointed in the air. But if you go too close (about 5 meters is their limit) they emit this huge snarl in your direction (without seeming to bother opening their eyes).

Other than that, life is pretty chilled and beach-like. So I decided I should visit something and set out to convince Roberto to leave the hostel in the capable hands of Esther for the weekend and take me to Iquique. It took some doing, but finally bus booked and we're on our way.

Iquique (Sat 24th - Mon 26th Feb)

Iquique is located 5 hours south of Arica..and it's a drive through pure desert. Your first glimpse of the town is from the cliff top and you can see it's more glitzy than it's neighbour. Roberto likens it to Acapulco; one showy strip of coastline with a huge pink casino, big promenade, lots of sky scrapers housing posh hotels. It's pretty though, with a massive open beach, lots of water sports and bars lining the front. And it's extremely hot, less windy than Arica since it's in a dip. And you notice the incredible amount of 4x4s; apparently there's a free trade agreement with this area and lots of goods and shoping are tax free (happy with that, I purchased some Hugo Boss perfume).

The HI hostel was fully booked (it's very stylish and on beach front) so we stayed down the road in Sunfish, a nice 4 star hotel complete with mini bar and rooftop swimming pool. Much the better choice, I feel.

We arrived around 2pm and headed straight to the beach bar for a pisco sour to celebrate our mini holiday. Naturally tis turned into a couple, then a bottle of wine to wash down the excellent seafood in a nearby restaurant. Obviously a siesta was then required, before we headed tothe HI hostel to head out with the owners, Roberto's friends. It was a really good night; I got to speak Spanish (doesn`t happen to often here amongst the grinos), drinks were free, and we got to dance in a huge cheesy bar, before getting a hot dog (Roberto ate mine) and heading home in the small hours!

Naturally we paid for that in the morning..but we struggled to the pool (so hard) and then over the road to eat. In the evening we went to Zofra`s for tax free shopipng. Almost bought a huge trampoline for the hostel, until we realised the logistics of getting it home! Then we went for a lovely meal in the bar area, and a good bottle of wine. Oh, and there was a little carnval going on..really quite pathetic by South American standards, but hey, beggars can't be choosers!

On out last day we mooched around town and ate a delicious hawian style pineapple filled with home-made ice-cream. Then it was back on the bus, order a chinese and home to check the hostel was still standing. Since it was Canadia's last night we still made the (big) effort to go out..but he never turned up because the was mwining and dining his lady! Bloody cheek but quite funny. All in all a good weekend break away.

(Take 2, I just wiped half an hour{s writing!)

Condidering Bolivia was the country I least wanted to visit in SA (4200m altitude, cold, all alone, no beach, I did well to stay over a month!).

After a sad good bye to Henry, I actually only spent a few hours on my own before I met Tiago, a Brazilian pérsonal trainer who was on my bus. We ended up in the same hostel and went partying together that night.

First impressions of La Paz..and therefore Bolivia, were of mayhem on the roads, busy street markets and people on every street corner, in national dress, selling anything and anything. But not so chaotic as Lima!

We ate llama in a local restaurant that night (not a great restaurant, but the llama was good...unlike the frozen black potatoes the Bolivians are fond of). Then we partied in Sol y Luna, a cool bar with live music.

There, I met Beverley, a Canadian, who was celebrating her birthday (we embarrassingly danced on the tables) with whom I then travelled with for the next few weeks. We also travelled with Andreas, a Norweigian, who we met at the English bar, Oliver´s Travels.

Oliver´s is named after it´s loud, brash, hilarious owner from Blackpool. Gringos gather there and then find it hard to leave...it serves proper tea, an excellent English breakfast, shepherd´s pie, cesar salad, etc, shows the football, good music, friendly staff...and a night out there basically ensured you are unable to make check out the following day, and hence the cycle begins again. I should mention some of the cool people I met there; Mel, Northern Irish, who was my partner in crime on a number of occasions, Oscar and Droor, the owners of the soon-to-be-opened Loki hostel in La Paz (I definitely recommend this to travellers, it's in a converted theatre and will have cool bar), Shirley, Andres and Yasmin, the bar staff...plus many more. So thanks everyone for a great time.

So, some highlights of the first 3 weeks of my time at Ollie's; The Pimps and Whores party was great fun. The bar provided a whole range of clothes. Whilst some girls went for a more 'classy' look, I definitely wanted the Pretty Women tarty look and sweated the night out in a black pvc top and very short leopard print skirt! Great fun.

Listening to the boys all lined up sitting at the bar crooning away repeatedly to 'You're Beautiful' by James Blunt, in an effort to clear the bar at the end of the night, is also a must see. Oh, and there was the evening before Ollie was about to install a new bar, and we burned down the old one....by pouring zambuca (vodka didn't work) onto the bar and setting it alight. The boys then took turns at battery ramming the bar (using the new one) until it was in pieces. The faces of some poor unsuspecting customers as they walked in expecting a quiet drink was certainly a sight. Just a shame it was a Sunday night, and I had left my camera at home, naively thinking it would be a quiet night...

Just for the record, I did do some cultural things whilst in a La Paz (although, to be fair, there simply isn't that much to do). Fo example, we visited the Coca museum..Coca leaves are very important for helping with the altitude..and also for their nutritional qualities; the indiginous people more or less survived on them whilst working as slaves under the Spanish. Obviously another use is a slighty less legal drug...

I also visited Tiwanaku, pre Inca remains, about 2 hours outside La Paz. The whole settlement is virtually intact..but pales in comparison to Macchu Picchu. There's an interesting museun there, showing the history of Inca and Pre Inca..and I saw my first mummy (and took an illegal photo of it!).

I also spent an enjoyable, active day exploring La Paz on foot. There's certainly a lot of churches..and I lit a candle in one. The Cathedral is impressive, San Francisco, located right in the heart of the city. And I´ve mentioned the incredible markets. The Witch's market sells everything llama, plus lovely silver jewellery. And the main market is enormous..there is a street dedicated to everything! For example, there's Lightbulb Street, which sells nothing but lightbubs, all lit up! Then there's flower street, adaptor street, wedding dress street......

Coroico

I did actually manage to leave La Paz for a short break during my time there. Vertigo and and respect for my life prevented me from biking down 'The World's Most Dangerous Road', so myself, Beverley and Andreas took the bus..down the newer and considerably less dangerous road. Incidentally, I´d heard many stories about bus travel in Bolivia (none of it good) and I have to say it wasn't the most comfortable journey..we were crammed into that minibus, which was sweaty and smelly and full fo flies and, to top it off, one gentleman decided it would be a good idea to buy fried chicken and eat it right in front of us, nice!

But the journey was worth it..Coroico is a tiny, pittoresque town in a valley at the bottom of Death Road. And it was gorgeously hot! We decided to treat ourselves and stay at Miranda's hotel, a 4 star at the top of the hill, with amazing views, a swimming pool and sauna and rooms with huge balconies...and it only cost about 100 bolivianos per night foro a double room (not bad for a 4 star..about 12 pounds).

We basically spent out ime relaxing by the pool, eating, taking saunas and playing cards in the evening. We explored the town, which is really just one leafy square with restaurants and food stores dotted around it. We had some good food, including a dish called Macchu ..., a local meat dish, and very tasty. There's also a good African themed bar, which serves cocktails. All in all we were very sad to leave such a peaceful place.

Sucre

After another week or so in La Paz, the three of us finallly left the city 'for good' and headed for Sucre, the old capital (it still technically is the capital and houses the main courts there, although economic power is now in La Paz).

Before

I was absolutely terrified! I stared dreading it, having heard stories from people about having to be carried down on the backs of porters, or breaking legs, or freezing...
Then, when it came to weighing our bags (the prters are only allowed to carry a max of 5kg), nothing would fit! Both Henry and I had to contuniually repack, until we had nothing but the bare essentials (yes, yes, I realize that's the point).

During
We had a great group for our trail; Willy was our guide and was absolutely hilarious (although he seemed a little unfit). The cook, Mani, was also cool (although he kept trying to chat me up, much to the amusement of the boys) and then we had two other guys on our group, Tom and John, both from London. So, there were the four of us, one guide, seven porters and cook..all for us!!

Day 1
This was good going, quite gentle and we only walked about 5 hours..andn got to explore some small Inca Ruins. It only rained a tiny bit and was suinny the rest ofo the day. We'd been expecting a simple sandwhich for lunch, so were amazed when we arrived at the chosen spot, to see the tent set out and a proper 3 course meal waiting for us; asparagus soup (yummy), rice and meat and a local berry juice, followed by tea and coffee. Fanastic! We though it was odd that the parters hurried in front andn walk with us..now we know why!

And we had luxury on our first night as well...cos we were a small group we had a private campsite..right next to the 'bar'. So, on arrival, we bought in a load of beers. After another delicious meal, we started on the drinking games, together with Willy and Mani..necer have I drunk so much beer..and I regreted iti at around 4am when it was pouring and I had to go pee under a poncho!

Day 2
Due to hangovers all round, we didn't set off until about 8am. This was by far and away the hardest day for me; 10 hours trekking, all uphill..and we{re talking a small incline, either. It really was a case of having to stop to breathe! And on top of that, it was pissing it down all day. AND, unlike the boys, who were all here on holidaye, not travelling, and so all had the correct kit, I only had trainers, which got thoroughly soaked, despite some sexy plastic shoe covering, kindly given to me by Willy. (Mind you at this point we were covered in waterproof trousers, ponchos, the lot and sexy is not the apt word). Anyway had an argument with Henry as I was feeling very techy at this point, so he didn't talk to me for the rest of the afternoon!).

Anyway, it was all worth iti when we finally reached Dead Woman's Pass..the sun came out and we got some great views..not to mention the sense of achievment, since this is the highest point on the trail.

Then, it was downhill all the way..for another 3 hours. And not as easy as it sounds..very slippery in the rain and a killer on the knees. But we made it.

Still, the worst was to come..no bar at the campsite (so we had to down the rum we bought) and then nighttime. NEVER have I been so cold. There was I shivering in my grade 2 sleeping bag..and could see Henry nice and snug in his posh rented feather bag..I awoke in a far from happy mood!

Day 3
Mush better, I enjoyed this. It was downhill and flat most of the way, and we didn't have so far to go. We got to look around a couple of Inca Sites. The real shame was the view, or lack of it. Still, we knew it was the rainy season (the bonus was that there were comparatively few people on the path, so we had it to ourselves a lot of the time). Also, Will had heard abiut a nwe and 'undiscovered' Inca site, hidden well into the trees, so we found ourselved jumping over bogs and ducking under heavy greenery to see this site..nearly fell in the mud and severely bumped my head on a brach..but great to know we've seen something others haven't.

WE were absolutely knached when we got to the last campsite..which was enormous, but had a bar and HOT SHOWERS! WE had a few beers and then slept soundly...

Day 4
Did not get off to a good start. AS I said, this campsite was enormaous and all on different levels. We had to get up a 4am and it was pitch black. I went to the loo (with headlight, but without walking stick). And then I couldn{t find my way back, got toally lost. And was wandering around like an idiot for ages. So finally decided to go andn wait by the showers and restauant for someone (ie my brother) to come andn find me. Half an hour later not a bloody soul. At last Mani, the chef, came to find me..and my dear bro was cheerfully eating his breakfast, assuming I was simply {taking ages as you normally do'! So, no breakfast for me.

Everything got better, though. A couple of hours gently uphill..then 5 minutes practically vertical up some steps..andn then we got to the foirst viewpoint for Machu Pichu. But nothing..only cloud. Luvkily, the cloud parted for a few seconds after anout half an hour, so we got our pics. It was amazing, though..the whole city is intact.

We had some amazing views on our way down to the Machu Picchu..and then we arrived to explore. It is incredible..all the walls intact and you can clearly envision the city as it was then.

Henry and I climber the small mountain that gave us amaxing views of the city and we collapsed on the way home.

Definitle worth it, we had great fun.

Cusco

Cuso is by far and away the most developed town we have seen in Peru; it is completely adapted to the tourist trade..and you can hardly move for being bombarded with people trying to sell you tours.

We stayed in Loci hostel, which was great. Enormous, but all rooms are surrounding an old grass courtyard, made of stone. It has a big bar, served good food and has friendly people. The 2 Canadians I knew from Salta were there, Andy and Beat, the guys we met in Lima plus a guy called Liam (who had been staying with Roberto in Chile), so we had a good group.

Day one we had wander, but took it fairly easy, since Henry was still not feeling too good. Next day, New Year{s Eve, we attempted to visit the Inca ruins on horseback..but the whole was a shambles; dodgy cowboy, knackered horses, a giude of about 10 years old on foot and everything taking place well later then we asked. So, after 5 minutes atop the nags, Henry and I turned back..me with an very unhappy cowboy on my back! We went straight back to the office to demand a refund.... we finally got 50% back, after a good old argument in Spanish, which was fun.

That night was party night. The Loci was holding a masked party, which was great fun..I had quite a classy eye mask and Henry had a freaky cartoon character. At midnight we all descended to the main plaza for the fireworks. I{ve never seen anything like it; the fireworks themselves were crap..but everyone was letting any old thing off in any direction. It was mayhem (and frankly quite dangerous), but good fun. Then we headed to a bar for a couple, before going back to Loci to párty on. Obviously, sillyme, I ended up going back into town later with Liam and an Aussie couple we met and making it to bed around 10am (so felt fantastic the day before the Inca Trail). But we had a really good night, and good end to 2006.

Lima

Firstly, very strange to see my brother in Sounth America. Second, what a massive difference betwwen Peru and Argentina and Chile..this country is very much less developed.

I arrived in Lima at the Point hostel around 10.30pm (delayed, as I was warned happens on internal flights here) and Henry arrived a couple of hours later. The hostel is pretty lively, so straight out for a beer to catch up.

Next we hot downtown Lima. My God, is it busy! SO mush traffic, chaos on the roads. In our first taxi we had a minor crash! And it´s so noisy, since all the drivers beep furiously at the slightest opportunity. It reminded me of Mexico City (if not busier. Still, we survivied the ride and headed off to see the torture museum in Lima..the Spanish were a nasty bunch when they were over here. I enjoyed it, but a slight problem if you don´t speak Spanish (and the guide gave me little time to translate for Henry).

We also got to see the changing of the guard and had a peak into the cathedral. Then we headed for a beer. To be honest, it´s a stifling city, not masses to see and we decided to hit the beach.

The Point Hostel (HI) is located in Barranco on a cliff top and this, together with neighbouring Miraflores, are the more upmarket areas. The beaches, as we knew they would be, are pretty grim..fairly unclean and rocky, backed by a busy road. But we had a nice walk over to Miraflores, races around the rocks before the waves caught us. We then ended up scaling a cliff to reach Miraflores (this is not in the guidebook, but it´s either this or a highway). After this exertion we felt we deserved a beer and found a few shops and lovely restaurant called Mango carved into the side of the cliff. We had to negotiate a table overlooking this sea, but managed it and had some very tasty fajitas (although we ordered beef, we suspected alpaca) and a pisco sour.

We then joined in with a pool competition at the hostel (I lost embarrassingly; Henry came a commendable second and won some beer. We then got pissed with a couple of amusing Aussies, who we´re going to meet again in Cusco.

Piura (20th Dec)

Decided to leave Lima day early so we could hit the beach sooner. But first we had a stop off in Piura (north Peru, a 3 hour bus journey to Mancora). All I can say is, DO NOT GO THERE! It really is dire..horrible motel like accommodations, a couple of very average restaurants and no bars, except for a single hotel bar. Let´s move on.

Mancora (21 Dec)

This is the most visited beach resort in Peru, famous for surfing and located on northern tip of Peru, very close to the Ecuadorian border. Must be said it´s a bit ramshackle. Basically consists of one dirt road, full of moto taxis and then the beach, which is lined with fairly basic accommodation. I had planned to stay in a place called Sol y Mar which, despite being termed ´sprawling´ in Lonely Planet, looked amazing on the internet. Well, we checked in, checked out all the other accommodation nearby, located a better one and checked out. Quick as you like. We ended up in Wawas..full of surfers, right on the beach and serves great snacks (there was a temporary drain problem, but hey, we´re in SA!).

First day hit the beach..the water is so warm (much warner than Chile)- but lots of waves. We the went to book ourselves onto a tour for the following day. Ended up eating in an Italian restaurant, but I had some lovl¡ely prawns (Henry was envious, since he stuck with pizza). Then we found a nice beach bar for a few beers..although strangely it was very quiet. Have to say, surfers don´t appear to be the most sociable group..we´ve not met anyone yet!

Second day we decided to be active and booked ourselves onto a tour to a nearby waterfalls. We had to start early and the tour involved a 2 hour horse trek to near the falls, thena short hike to the falls, where we had lunch and swum, before heading back. We also got to stop off at a very small local village..and it was breaking u day at the local school, so we got to see the kids being given their certificates in the playground. A real motley crew, but there was one guy in his 20s there who had managed to graduate, despite having a family to look after. It felt a bit wierd wandering into the kids class to hand out bread.. I could just imagine myself teaching there, with just a chalk board and a book or two..made me realise how lucky we are.

Anyway, it must be said, I have never seen anything so hilarious as Henry on a horse! We asked for a slow one for him..and got that all right..the pack donkey went faster than his nag!! My horse was good, and I got to enjoy a few canters with the guide (whose name I have forgotten). she was great, though and made us a fantastic lunch, which we enjoyed at the waterfall.

We had a couple also on the tour with us, who were very amusing; nwly weds, the girl was a beautiful Perunvian and her hubby was a big, clumsy Belgian, who really didn{t have great communication skills. Henry amused himslef with some hilarious photoso of 'the hulk' clamboring onto a way too small pony and then, later, in the waterfall, waering only tiny swimming trunks andn lace upshoes (photos to follow)!

Sadly, we then spent the next couple of days trying to exit Mancora, with no joy! It{s a nice beach..but there is simply not a thing to do there, other than lie on the beach or surf..we couldn't even hire bikes! Anyway, we had a couple of chilled out days..andn did manage to find quite a posh hotel along the beach, which we booked into for Christmas dinner..so, yes, we did have turkey! But it really wasn't great..it was to eat Xmas dinner with a good view by the beach, though. And we met 3 English girls also there, who we had a few drinks with (in our case, quite a few). Ridiculously, the bar then closed at 10.30pm..so Henry and I went back to Mancora town..and rather than take the sensible option, we went partying, big stylie..met some locals and were still up and going at 10am Christmas morning! It wasa fun night..but sadly, it meant Christmas day was a total wright-off..we eoke up a 4pm feeling seriously ill..just aboiut managed to make a few calls home. Then had a swim and headed off to get food..but couldn't eat, so the food having arrived at the table, we had to ask them to pack it up for a take out. Not our finest hour!

Next day was a 4am start to head to Puno.

Puno and Lake TitKaka

Bid difference in temperature, here..and indeed in altitude. Henry seemed to manage it ok, though - but appaers to have got food poisoning!

Anyway, Puno is a small town, completely dedicated to tourists..alpaca everywhere..but not a lot to do, apart from visit the Lake. And that was cool. First day, we got up late, so just visited the floating islands of Uros. They are incredible..tiny islands made of yellow reeds..absolutely everying the same reedy colour, even the baots! And the ground is really springy and damp to walk on..witgh small huts the locals sleep and eat in. There was a local woman cooking some trout, which had abviously just been caught. We bought a bowl to eat it in, and ate it with our fingers..but it was the best fish I've had for a while (and, frankly, the best food we'd had in Peru!).

Next day, we back to Uros, on our way to the bigger Lake Titkaka isalnds of Amanti and Taquila. This time it was raining, and pretty cold. We nearly ended up on a locals boat..but it was so full, they wanted us to sit with the cargo on the top!! So we ended up on another, tourist boat, which tuned out to be a good move, since we met some really nice guys to hang out with.

It took ages to get to Amanti, but it's a really pretty island; very hilly and used for agriculture. Local women met us off the baot and then we were asigned a family, with hom we were to spend the nighty. It was awkward at first, but luckily Henry and I had a loveñy family, who could speak Spanish (as well as their native Amara). Typically, our house was the highest of them all..and, believe me, it is hard to breathe walking uphill, ith a backpack, in this altitude (it's well over 4000m). So we huffed and puffed..but were pleasantly surprised..it was a very basic cattage, with only an outside {hole{ for a toilet..andn no running water or electricity..but we had our own bedroom, with separate beds! Andn our host mama cooked us some great food..quinoa soups, rice with cheese and vegetable. And all in such a basic kitchen with no light!

The first afternoon, we climbed to the very top of the hill, which had amazing vies (but what a struggle to the top!). And we had the funniest guidem Bruno, who kep refering to us as 'Bruno Group', translated every single word (often mid sentence) in Spanish and English and shouted 'listen' at you if he thought you were'nt paying attention. Very amusing.

And even more amusing that night, was a surprise disco! This involved us dressing in local costume and attending a dance in the local hall. While the boys got off lightly with just a poncho, I had to wear the full skirts and top. I now have the utmost respect for the women who wear this every day..because, frankly, I couldn't breathe..they sinch in the skirts so tight. And there's so many of them, the guys all laughed; I felt like a sumo wrestler! But we all had a dance with the locals and had a laugh.

Next day was Henry's 28th birthday..what a place to wake up for it. But our 'family' were so sweet and the daughter had made him a garland of flowers (more than he got from me!).

We had a nice, early start, setting off at 7am for the nearby island of Taquila. This land is more fertile, and has a main square, selling artisan wear. Wierdly, it is traditional on this island for the women to work the land, while the men knit! They knit hats...and have a special one with a bobble, which they wear if they are single!!

So, had a look at some pre inca ruins here, then had lunch, before setting off for Puno. We had a good eveing out in a local bar for Henry's birthday, since Andy and Beat plus some other guys from the tour joined us.

Then, next day, time to set off for Cusco and the Inca Trail.